Author Archive: wae

Time to Limit my Slip

During the National Challenge event I started noticing a whine in forward gears, almost the same as when the car is in reverse.  I drove an hour and  half to go get some synchromesh fluid thinking that the transmission was low, but that wasn’t the problem.  Driving around town, I’ve noticed that the car will sort of slip, especially during right hand turns.  The clutch would be the first culprit, but the re-engagement is very harsh and slipping clutches have always been a little more gradual in my experience.  The main suspects right now are the differential and the CV joints.

Two nights ago, I got the spare transmission and the diff with the Phantom Grip installed out of “storage” and started to get them ready for installation.  I was missing the snap rings for the diff pin, so I picked those up yesterday and spent last night getting the differential installed in the transmission and the transmission reassembled.  I poured syncromesh into every bearing I could see and used the Mopar gasket maker / anaerobic sealant to put a bead on the mating surface of the transmission.  Getting the two halves to rejoin each other was quite a challenge — I eventually put the bellhousing on the ground and lowered the transmission onto it.  Despite gentle massaging, I couldn’t get the transmission to rejoin itself, so I put the bolts in and slowly brought it together by tightening the bolts in something of a cross pattern.

Also, I picked up an oil pan from the junkyard yesterday.  Since I’m going to be in there anyway, I think it might be a good time to drain the oil and swap out the oil pan.  I have a bunch of fittings and hose from anplumbing.com so I can re-make the turbo oil plumbing to try to eliminate the oil leaks.  I also suspect that the turbo drain hose is something of a ticking time bomb since it starts spraying oil when the pressure gets too high.  This job may need to wait, depending on how easy/hard it is to get the transmission out.  I’m not going to be able to do anything with the car over this weekend and next weekend is a points event in OVR, so I need to be able to get some testing in with the new transmission before I head up there.  If the new oil plumbing has to wait, then so be it!

Closer to paint

A good portion of the weekend was consumed by watching F1 and re-starting the deck re-finishing project, however, I did get out to the garage to make a little more progress.  The front fairing is de-oranged and needs to be wet sanded to take the scratches out.  It also has some gouges that will need to be filled.  I’ve wet-sanded most of the rest of the plastic, and used some 3M marine adhesive to fill in some deeper gouges.  Apparently, the adhesive takes 7 days to cure and I’m only in day 2 right now so we will see if it hardens up enough to sand down.  But progress is being made once again!

Getting back to it

It’s been way too long since I’ve updated, but then I haven’t accomplished much.

Basically, everything except the main front fairing is pretty much sanded down and ready for primer.  I am planning to sand and paint the front fairing on the bike rather than trying to take it off and put it back on — there’s just too many parts to worry about there, and honestly, I think I can paint it just fine on there.

Today I purchased from eBay Motors a new lower center cowl piece since both bikes were missing that as well as three new side cover pegs/posts that I can epoxy onto the existing left side cover.  Tonight, I plan to get the front fairing sanded down and ready for primer.

One other problem that I’m having is getting in to the various crevices of some of the parts to get them sanded down.  I’m going to look in to Dremel bits/tools that might get the job done without damaging the ABS.

Mid-Season Update

I’ve been running the car, but haven’t written much about it so far.  There have been two events in OVR (with another two rained out) and I also went to a National Challenge event in Alabama.  I’ve led my class and been placing high overall in the OVR events and in AL, I placed second in class and second overall.  So, things are looking pretty good, but I need to work a little bit on my dry(er) surface performance.

I still haven’t gotten the Phantom Grip installed yet, but I really need to have that done soon, so I might need to make that a priority.  I did put new exhaust on the car, which has worked out well.  When I was in AL, I managed to rip the exhaust completely off the car, so I needed to repair that.  I bought about $170 worth of 3″ pipe and a Magnaflow glasspack resonator from Jegs, borrowed a flux core welder and built up a new exhaust system:

It sounds great and flows much better — I actually had to enrich the fuel map a bit to compensate.  Amazingly, it’s making significantly more power, but it actually much quieter, so it’s a win all the way around.  My next step with the exhaust is to replace the O2 housing, since that’s still necked-down to 2.25″.  I’m thinking that I can do that with a flange, some 3″ pipe, and a weldable O2 bung.

In addition to the pipe, I welded up cross members that are bolted to the floorpan so that even if the exhaust comes loose again, it will not be able to drop to the ground.  That means I may need to re-weld it or re-attach it at some point, but I don’t have too much worry about destroying any of it.

After the event on 28JUN, however, I discovered that it doesn’t quite give enough clearance on the rear suspension:

I really thought that if anything bad would happen, it would be the exhaust pipe caving in, but apparently the pipe was stronger than the control arm.  I have some spares, so that’s not a problem, but I’m going to need to alter that back bit of the exhaust to compensate.  My thought is to first cut the straight section that runs right-to-left in front of the gas tank, rotate the aft section by a couple negative degrees, and then re-weld.  While that will clear the control arms, the rest of the exhaust will then angle upwards towards the bottom of the body.  To remedy that, I’ll need to cut the post-suspension part of the exhaust and weld in a slight downward angle to level it back out.

More sanding

No new pictures, unfortunately, but I was out of town and Rallycrossing so I didn’t do too much with the bike the last few days. Tonight, however, I took the trunk apart and got the lid sanded down. Also, I did a little test-spray of the primer to see how well it builds and how easily it sprays and I think it’s going to work out fairly well to cover the sanding scratches.

I’ve got the lower part of the trunk and the battery side cover left of the parts that are not currently attached to the ’87. Once those are sanded, though, it’ll be time to take the bike off the road so I can begin working on the fairing and the left and right lower fairing bits. I also need to find and buy the lower cowl bar that goes across the bottom of the radiator.

Fan still not working

The fan still does not come on. I think I may just wire up a fan switch and control it manually. The bike cools just fine out on the open road, but sitting in traffic or at a particularly long series of red lights will get the temp into the danger zone.

In other news, I acquired primer, base, clear, 3M 5200, and a lot of sandpaper. I’ve got a bag, the front fender, and one side panel sanded down and ready for bodywork and I’m just wiped out.

Fixing the cooling fan

I think I may have gotten the overheating problem fixed tonight. I took the sides of the fairing off so I could get to the cooling fan and when I jumped it with a battery, it spun just like it should. The next thing to look at was the thermostatic switch and when I got in there, this is what I saw:

 

The wires had come apart right at the connector. Fortunately, I’ve got an extra wiring harness, so I went ahead and snipped off the connector. As it turns out, this was one of those thing that seems doomed to fail — the way it was crammed into the other bike, the wires were starting to abrade as well, so I used some tape and heat shrink tubing to shore that up. I get it all reconnected like so:

 

Tomorrow, I’ll take it out and get it good and hot and see if the fan comes on.

Cleaned up a little bit

Last night I went out and started with this:

 

and managed to turn it into this:

 

It’s still pretty cluttered up, but it’s actually a pretty big improvement. Along the way, I did a little more disassembly on the ’84 so that it’s almost just the frame at this point. The wiring harness is still intertwined, the clutch hydraulics are still on, and I think the rear brake reservoir is still there, but otherwise, it’s the frame plus the front forks.

I still haven’t checked the fan yet, but I did get a new left side mirror in the mail yesterday, so whenever the title arrives in the mail, I’ll be able to get it inspected by the sheriff.

84 is Torn Down

I went out into the garage three or four times yesterday, but each time the intention was just to check the fuse on the 87 for the fan so I didn’t take the camera out. Each time, however, I crossed the threshold into the garage and lost my mind a bit and started take more stuff of the 84.

So I don’t have any pictures, but basically the motor is out, the gas tank is out, the wheels are off, the rear suspension is off, the rear end and drive shaft are off, and the frame is tucked back in the corner a little more.

Tires look decent. They have a 2011 date code, have held air for the last two months at least, and don’t show any signs of rot. They’re not brand new by any stretch, but they’re not that close to the wear marks either. Assuming the speedo will plug in, I will probably swap wheels.

I think each bike has one leaking rear shock and one good one. How providential!

Eventually I got around to checking the fan fuse and it is good, so next I need to try applying voltage directly to the fan to see if the fan itself is bad, then track back through to the temp switch. Good news is that I have an extra one of those!

Everybody says to skip the Clymer and Haynes books because they aren’t accurate and skip steps so you’re supposed to shell out big bucks for the official Honda manual. Let me save you some time and tell you that the Honda manual lies. The gas tank does not simply slide out the back, and they miss a handful of things that need to be done to remove the engine.

It’s a little bit sad to see the 84 nothing but a bare frame in the corner. It did look like there was some oil under the timing cover, though, which could mean a leaking front seal. And since that seal is NLA, I’m not sure that could be fixed with anything short of a new motor. I do know that timing belts don’t like oil, so the only other remedy might be to do a timing belt job every year.

On the 84, I need to start boxing up parts to get them out of the way. Then I’m going to set up my PVC and plastic paint booth again and start prepping to repaint the plastic bits. The 87 needs to have the tires changed out and the cooling fan fixed and then I’m going to try riding it as-is for a while until the bodywork is ready. Then I can do the belts, fluids, and change out bodywork all at once.